EXCERPT FROM AN EXPEDITION TO THE VALLEY OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE OF UTAH (1852, by Howard Stansbury)

Exploration and surveys of lands, for the purpose of establishing townships and planning roads, played a major role in the shaping of the American West. The U.S. Army's Corps of Topographical Engineers was formed early in the nineteenth century. Howard Stansbury, a captain in the Corps, produced a variety of exceptional reports, most notably his popular 1851 survey of the valley of the Great Salt Lake that was published in London in 1852.

Stansbury arrived in the newly established Utah Territory only four years after the Mormons had arrived there to settle. This account covers his meeting with Brigham Young as well as the Mormons' initial reluctance to allow the U.S. government to explore their newly formed community. The report, which was published with illustrations, details vegetation, geological formations, and weather conditions while making observations about Native American culture and encampments.

Leah R.Shafer,
Cornell University

See also Bridger, Fort ; Geophysical Explorations ; Great Salt Lake ; Salt Lake City ; Western Exploration .

Chapter IV.

From Fort Bridger to Great Salt Lake City.

Monday, August 20.—We followed the Mormon road for several miles, and then took a "cut-off" leading more to the north, crossing the dividing ridge between the waters of Muddy Fork, an affluent of Green River, and those of Bear River, which falls into the Great Basin. We crossed the broad valley of Tar-Spring Creek, a tributary of Bear River, where the two roads join. The "cut-off" has been abandoned on account of an almost impassable hill at the dividing ridge. This, and another almost equally steep, are the only objections to this route, the rest of the way being excellent. Leaving the Mormon road at the crossing of Bear River, we followed down its valley six miles, as far as Medicine Butte, an elevated knob in the valley. This is a spot well known among the Indians, as that to which they were formerly in the habit of repairing to consult their oracles, or "medicine-men," who had located their "medicine lodge" in the vicinity of this little mountain. The route of a road to reach the north end of Salt Lake should pursue a nearly west course from Bridger's Fort to this Butte, a distance of about thirty miles; the country, according to the representations of our guide, who has passed over it many times, being extremely favourable.

At our encampment on Bear River, near this Butte, abundance of speckled trout were caught, resembling in all respects the brook trout of the States, except that the speckles are black instead of yellow. An ox, which had strayed from some unfortunate emigrant, was found on the bank of the stream, in such capital condition that he was shot for food, and such portions as we could not carry with us were most generously presented to a small encampment of Shoshonee Indians, whose wigwams were erected among the bushes on the opposite side of the stream. It was curious to see how perfectly every portion of the animal was secured by them for food, even the paunch and entrails being thoroughly washed for that purpose. The squaws acted as the butchers, and displayed familiar acquaintance with the business, while the men lounged about, leaning lazily upon their rifles, looking listlessly on, as if it were a matter in which they were in no manner interested. They had quite a large number of horses and mules, and their encampment betokened comparative comfort and wealth.

The bottom of Bear River is here four or five miles in breadth, and is partially overflowed in the spring: the snow lies upon it to the depth of four feet in the winter, which prevents the Indians from occupying it during that season of the year, for which it would otherwise be well adapted.

In leaving Fort Bridger, we passed over horizontal lias beds. About six miles to the north of the road, the country appeared to be much broken up, and not solely by the action of water. The strata seemed dislocated and inclined, presenting much the same appearance as those near Laramie. Near this point, Fremont states that he found coal, which probably has been thrown up here. At Ogden's Hole, on the eastern slope of the Wahsatch Mountains, we found the ranges of hills to be composed of the carboniferous strata, thrown up at a very considerable angle; and at Bear River, near our encampment of to-day, they were almost perpendicular, the later strata being deposited by their side in an almost horizontal position, with a very slight dip to the southeast. At this latter point, the older sandstones were cropping out at an angle of 35 degrees; and on the opposite side of the river, the same strata were seen with a dip in the contrary direction, the valley being evidently an anticlinal axis.

Wednesday, August 22.—Crossing the broad valley of Bear River diagonally, we forded that stream, and struck over a point of bluff into a valley, the course of which being too much to the south for our purpose, we passed over to another, and followed it to its head, where it opens upon a long ridge, running to the south-west. Instead of following the ridge, (which I afterward found should have been done,) we crossed over two more ridges into a third valley, in which was a small rapid stream running into Bear River. Fearful of getting too far south, I ascended the western bluff of this stream, in hopes of finding a valley or ridge the course of which would give us more westing; but the country, in that direction, was so much broken that we were forced still farther to the south, and struck upon the heads of Pumbar's Creek, a tributary of the Weber River, which latter discharges its waters into the Great Salt Lake. This valley, our guide insisted, would lead us in the right direction, and it was concluded to follow it down, which we did for about four miles, and bivouacked for the night. We continued down this valley until the middle of the following day, when, instead of the broad open appearance which it had at first presented, it soon began to contract, until it formed a canon, with sides so steep that it was scarcely passable for mules. A blind Indian-trail wound along the hillside, at an elevation of several hundred feet above the stream, into which a single false stop of our mules would instantly have precipitated us. It required no small exertion of nerve to look down from this dizzy height into the yawning gulf beneath. After following the cañon some ten miles, we came to a broad valley coming into it from the left, which the guide declared headed in the ridge from which we had descended yesterday, and to the eastward of the route we had taken. As all prospect of a road by the valley of Pumbar's Creek was now out of the question, I determined to follow up this valley and ascertain whether a route could not be obtained in that direction. This was accordingly done, and we found it to be as the guide had stated. This branch of Pumbar's Creek, which we called Red Chimney Fork, from the remarkable resemblance of one of the projections of the cliffs to that object, we found to have a very moderate descent from the ridge to its mouth, with plenty of room for a road, requiring but little labour to render it a good one. The timber is small and consists of oak, black-jack, aspen, wild-cherry, service-berry, and box-elder of large size. In many places it is quite abundant.

On Pumbar's Creek, the hills were composed of strata of marble and metamorphic sandstone, inclined at an angle of 80 degrees to the north-east. Lower down, the horizontal strata were found lying by the side of these inclined rocks. On Red Chimney Fork, the strata were nearly horizontal, consisting principally of layers of red sandstone conglomerate, formed from metamorphic rocks with calcareous cement, and white sandstone with layers of conglomerate interposed. Near its junction with Pumbar's Creek, strata of slaty shales occurred, cropping out at an angle of 70 degrees.

Below the Red Chimney Fork, the valley of Pumbar's Creek opens sufficiently to allow the passage of a road through the bottom; but, as its course was leading us from our intended direction, we availed ourselves of a ravine, which, a mile below, comes into it from the north-west, and followed this up to its head, thus attaining the height of the general level of the country. The ascent is quite regular, but the road would have to be made all the way up, and a considerable quantity of small cotton-wood timber cut out. The upper strata on this branch appeared to be nearly analogous to those met with on Red Chimney Fork. We followed this ridge or table in a north-west direction for several miles, when we became involved among numerous ravines which ran to the south, and were too deep and abrupt to be available. In order to avoid them, the trace must be thrown so much to the north, that even were a road practicable up to this point, it would be entirely too crooked; and great difficulty, moreover, would have to be encountered in crossing the immense ravines which lay at the eastern base of the ranges bordering the Salt Lake. Some of these ravines run down into Ogden's Creek, and others into Bear River below the point at which we crossed it. Time would not admit of my pursuing the examination farther in this direction. My train had left Fort Bridger several days before me, and would be awaiting my arrival at Great Salt Lake City to commence the survey which was the more immediate object of the expedition. I, therefore, although with the greatest reluctance, concluded to make the best of my way to the lake, passing through Ogden's Hole, and thence crossing the high range dividing it from Salt Lake Valley, by a pass which the guide informed me existed there. We accordingly changed our course, and turning down a steep, narrow ravine for wood and water, encamped. The night was very cold, and ice formed in the buckets nearly an inch thick. We constructed a semicircular barricade of brush to keep off the wind, and, by the aid of a large fire of pine-logs, passed the night very comfortably.

The soil on the ridge passed, over to-day, seemed formed principally from red sandstone, and the boulders are primitive. The country is much better wooded, the timber being willow, aspen, and, in the ravines, tall firs and pines. The geranium was abundant: two or three yellow compositae and asters were observed.

Sunday, August 26.—Morning very cold. Ther. at sunrise, 16 degrees. Our provisions being nearly exhausted, I determined to go on for at least a part of the day, although contrary to my usual practice, this being the first Sabbath on which any travelling has been done since the party left the Missouri. After following some miles down the ravine upon which we had encamped, we struck upon an Indian lodge-trail, leading either to Cache Valley or to Ogden's Hole. This we followed in nearly a southerly direction, crossing many deep hollows and very steep ridges, up which we had to scramble, leading our mules, (it being impossible to ride,) until we struck upon the head of a broad, green, beautiful valley, with an even, gentle descent, which led us, in about three miles, down to Ogden's Creek, just before it makes a canon, previous to entering Ogden's Hole. There we encamped for the remainder of the day, with abundance of excellent grass, wood, and water. The same alternations of red and white sandstone appeared here as were seen on the Red Chimney Fork.

Just before descending into this valley, we had observed from the high ground, the smokes of numerous Indian signal fires, rising in several directions—an intimation that strangers had been discovered in their country. A strict watch was therefore maintained during the night, lest our animals should be stolen. Wild cherries were found in tolerable abundance, and the trail was strewn over with their smaller branches, thrown away by the Indians, who had evidently passed only a day or two before, in considerable numbers.

Monday, August 27.—We followed down Ogden's Creek about a mile, when we found that the broad valley was shut up between two ranges of hills, or rather mountains, leaving a flat, low, level bottom, densely covered in places by willows, through which the stream meanders from side to side, for three miles, washing alternately the base of either range. After passing through this cañon, the ridge separated, and before us lay a most lovely, broad, open valley, somewhat in the shape of a crescent, about fifteen miles long, and from five to seven miles in width, hemmed in on all sides, especially on the south and west, by lofty hills and rocky mountains, upon the tops and sides of which the snow glistened in the rays of the morning sun. The scene was cheering in the highest degree. The valley, rich and level, was covered with grass; springs broke out from the mountains in every direction, and the facilities for irrigation appeared to be very great. Ogden's Creek, breaking through its barriers, flows in a crystal stream at the base of the mountains on the south, for rather more than half the length of the valley, when it forces a passage through the huge range which divides this "gem of the desert" from the Salt Lake Valley, by a cañon wild and almost impassable. On the north, a beautiful little brook, taking its rise in the elevated ground separating this from Cache Valley, washes the base of the western hills, and joins Ogden's Creek just before it enters the cañon, after passing through which the latter discharges its waters into the Weber River, a tributary of the Great Salt Lake. Numerous bright little streams of pure running water were met with in abundance, rendering this the most interesting and delightful spot we had seen during our long and monotonous journey.

Rather more than half-way between the canon of Ogden's Creek and the north end of the valley, a pass is found by which a crossing of the mountain into the Salt Lake Valley can be effected. The ascent of the western side is, for the first four or five hundred yards, very abrupt and rocky, and would require a good deal of grading to render a road practicable; but after this, little or no labour would be necessary, except to cut away the brush, which, in places, is quite thick. The length of the pass is about three miles, and the height of the range through which it makes the cut, from eight hundred to a thousand feet above the valleys on each side. The valley of Ogden's Creek, or Ogden's Hole, (as places of this kind, in the nomenclature of this country, are called,) has long been the rendezvous of the North-west Company, on account of its fine range for stock in the winter, and has been the scene of many a merry reunion of the hardy trappers and traders of the mountains. Its streams were formerly full of beaver, but these have, I believe, entirely disappeared. Some few antelope were bounding over the green, but the appearance of fresh "Indian sign" accounted for their scarcity.

During our ride through the valley we came suddenly on a party of eight or ten Indian women and girls, each with a basket on her back, gathering grass-seeds for their winter's provision. They were of the class of "rootdiggers," or, as the guide called them, "snake-diggers." The instant they discovered us, an immediate and precipitate flight took place, nor could all the remonstrances of the guide, who called loudly after them in their own language, induce them to halt for a single moment. Those who were too close to escape by running, hid themselves in the bushes and grass so effectually, that in less time than it has taken to narrate the circumstance, only two of them were to be seen. These were a couple of girls of twelve or thirteen years of age, who, with their baskets dangling at their backs, set off at their utmost speed for the mountains, and continued to run as long as we could see them, without stopping, or so much as turning their heads to look behind them. The whole party was entirely naked. After they had disappeared, we came near riding over two girls of sixteen or seventeen, who had "cached" behind a large fallen tree. They started up, gazed upon us for a moment, waved to us to continue our journey, and then fled with a rapidity that soon carried them beyond our sight.

In the pass through which we entered Ogden's Hole, the carboniferous rocks were again found, thrown up at an angle of 70 degrees or 80 degrees, with a dip to the north-east. On the western side of the high range of hills which extended to the north-west and formed the eastern boundary of Ogden's Hole, the edges of the strata cropped out as if a great fault had been formed at the point of elevation. No debris of primitive rock were discovered, nor was any observed in place during the whole journey from Bridger's Fort. In the pass leading to Salt Lake, through the Wahsatch range, the rock were metamorphic. Some beautiful specimens of marble were observed, and also some white crystalline sandstones. The strata again appeared on the western side of the range, and were inclined to the north-east about 70 degrees. The chain evidently was not formed on a central axis. No fossils were collected during this part of the journey, as we travelled rapidly, and the means of transporting them were necessarily limited.

Descending the pass through dense thickets of small oak-trees, we caught the first glimpse of the Great Salt Lake, the long-desired object of our search, and which it had cost us so many weary steps to reach. A gleam of sunlight, reflected by the water, and a few floating, misty clouds, were all, however, that we could see of this famous spot, and we had to repress our enthusiasm for some more favourable moment. I felt, nevertheless, no little gratification in having at length attained the point where our labours were to commence in earnest, and an impatient longing to enter upon that exploration to which our toils hitherto had been but preliminary.

Emerging from the pass, we entered the valley of the Salt Lake, and descending some moderately high table-land, struck the road from the Mormon settlements to the lower ford of Bear River, whence, in two or three miles, we came to what was called Brown's Settlement, and rode up to quite an extensive assemblage of log buildings, picketed, stockaded, and surrounded by out-buildings and cattle-yards, the whole affording evidence of comfort and abundance far greater than I had expected to see in so new a settlement. Upon requesting food and lodging for the night, we were told to our great surprise that we could not be accommodated, nor would the occupants sell us so much as an egg or a cup of milk, so that we were obliged to remount our horses; and we actually bivouacked under some willows, within a hundred yards of this inhospitable dwelling, turning our animals loose, and guarding them all night, lest, in search of food, they should damage the crops of this surly Nabal. From a neighbouring plantation we procured what we needed; otherwise we should have been obliged to go supperless to bed. I afterward learned that the proprietor had been a sort of commissary or quartermaster in Colonel Cook's Mormon Battalion, in California, and had some reason to expect and to dread a visit from the civil officers of the United States, on account of certain unsettled public accounts; and that he had actually mistaken us for some such functionaries. Subsequent acts of a similar nature, however, fully evinced the ungracious character of the man, strongly contrasted as it was with the frank and generous hospitality we ever received at the hands of the whole Mormon community.

The following day we reached the City of the Great Salt Lake, and found that the train had arrived safely on the 23d, and was now encamped near the Warm Springs on the outskirts of the city, awaiting my coming.

The result of the reconnoissance we had thus completed was such as to satisfy me that a good road can be obtained from Fort Bridger to the head of the Salt Lake; although I incline to the opinion that it should pass farther north than the route taken by me, entering the southern end of Cache Valley, probably by Blacksmith's Fork, and leaving it by the canon formed by Bear River in making its way from that valley into the lake basin. A more minute examination than the pressure of my other duties allowed me time to make will, I think, result in the confirmation of this view and the ultimate establishment of this road. Should such prove to be the case, it will, in addition to shortening the distance, open to the emigration, at the season they would reach it, the inexhaustible resources of Cache Valley, where wood, water, abundance of fish, and the finest range imaginable for any number of cattle, offer advantages for recruiting and rest possessed by no other point that I have seen on either side of the mountains.

Before reaching Great Salt Lake City, I had heard from various sources that much uneasiness was felt by the Mormon community at my anticipated coming among them. I was told that they would never permit any survey of their country to be made; while it was darkly hinted that if I persevered in attempting to carry it on, my life would scarce be safe. Utterly disregarding, indeed giving not the least credence to these insinuations, I at once called upon Brigham Young, the president of the Mormon church and the governor of the commonwealth, stated to him what I had heard, explained to him the views of the Government in directing an exploration and survey of the lake, assuring him that these were the sole objects of the expedition. He replied, that he did not hesitate to say that both he and the people over whom he presided had been very much disturbed and surprised that the Government should send out a party into their country so soon after they had made their settlement; that he had heard of the expedition from time to time, since its outset from Fort Leavenworth; and that the whole community were extremely anxious as to what could be the design of the Government in such a movement. It appeared, too, that their alarm had been increased by the indiscreet and totally unauthorized boasting of an attache of General Wilson, the newly-appointed Indian Agent for California, whose train on its way thither had reached the city a few days before I myself arrived. This person, as I understood, had declared openly that General Wilson had come clothed with authority from the President of the United States to expel the Mormons from the lands which they occupied, and that he would do so if he thought proper. The Mormons very naturally supposed from such a declaration that there must be some understanding or connection between General Wilson and myself; and that the arrival of the two parties so nearly together was the result of a concerted and combined movement for the ulterior purpose of breaking up and destroying their colony. The impression was that a survey was to be made of their country in the same manner that other public lands are surveyed, for the purpose of dividing it into townships and sections, and of thus establishing and recording the claims of the Government to it, and thereby anticipating any claim the Mormons might set up from their previous occupation. However unreasonable such a suspicion may be considered, yet it must be remembered that these people are exasperated and rendered almost desperate by the wrongs and persecutions they had previously suffered in Illinois and Missouri; that they had left the confines of civilization and fled to these far distant wilds, that they might enjoy undisturbed the religious liberty which had been practically denied them; and that now they supposed themselves to be followed up by the General Government with the view of driving them out from even this solitary spot, where they had hoped they should at length be permitted to set up their habitation in peace.

Upon all these points I undeceived Governor Young to his entire satisfaction. I was induced to pursue this conciliatory course, not only in justice to the Government, but also because I knew, from the peculiar organization of this singular community, that, unless the "President" was fully satisfied that no evil was intended to his people, it would be useless for me to attempt to carry out my instructions. He was not only civil governor, but the president of the whole Church of Latter-Day Saints upon the earth, their prophet and their priest, receiving, as they all firmly believed, direct revelations of the Divine will, which, according to their creed, form the law of the church. He is, consequently, profoundly revered by all, and possesses unbounded influence and almost unlimited power. I did not anticipate open resistance; but I was fully aware that if the president continued to view the expedition with distrust, nothing could be more natural than that every possible obstruction should be thrown in our way by a "masterly inactivity." Provisions would not be furnished; information would not be afforded; labour could not be procured; and no means would be left untried, short of open opposition, to prevent the success of a measure by them deemed fatal to their interests and safety. So soon, however, as the true object of the expedition was fully understood, the president laid the subject-matter before the council called for the purpose, and I was informed, as the result of their deliberations, that the authorities were much pleased that the exploration was to be made; that they had themselves contemplated something of the kind, but did not yet feel able to incur the expense; but that any assistance they could render to facilitate our operations would be most cheerfully furnished to the extent of their ability. This pledge, thus heartily given, was as faithfully redeemed; and it gives me pleasure here to acknowledge the warm interest manifested and efficient aid rendered, as well by the president as by all the leading men of the community, both in our personal welfare and in the successful prosecution of the work.

SOURCE: Stansbury, Howard. An Expedition to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah: Including a Description of Its Geography, Natural History, and Minerals, and an Analysis of Its Waters; with an Authentic Account of the Mormon Settlement; Illustrated by Numerous Beautiful Plates, from Drawings Taken on the Spot, Also a Reconnoissance [sic] of a New Route through the Rocky Mountains and Two Large and Accurate Maps of That Region. Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo & Co., 1852.